There isn't a guy in the history of mankind that will turn down a quickie...so it is with me. My dawn patrol paddle out this morning paid off with some fun waves and a good paddle, but it didn't last long.
I arrived in the line-up at Sarges at about 0750, the only guy out. Tide was a bit fat but I snagged a set wave right off the bat. I knew the waits would be too long so I headed to Gdubs and picked off a few there. In the offshore wind chill I watched the cold front plow it's way into the bay. If anything, the weather hallmark for this month has been cold and wet. Today was no different. I surfed Gdubs until the tide lowered enough to where I didn't want to ride into the rock pile. So I headed back to Sarges. So far, no one wanted to surf with me...I was alone.
It was good to be back n the water. I couldn't wipe the smile off my face. I was babbling and laughing to myself as I paddled back out to the line-up. Two flat belly paddlers joined me after a while. Do you think they thought it strange that the demented stand up guy couldn't keep at straight face? Of course not...they're surfers too.
Brother Joe paddled over after a bit on his Nui; another longboarder paddled out, and then Mashie hit the water on Mahi 1. He looks good on green. There were plenty of waist high peelers to go around, and everyone was getting their fair share. Good thing too, because ceilings were lowering.
The wind shifted from offshore to east and southeast about 0900, and things progressively deteriorated. Still, a good surf in between storms. Rain started up again about 3PM. We'll be dodging storms all this week and maybe into next.
La Mission Exaltacion already has twice as much rain this year to date as last year, some locations have three times last years total. Drought over?
January 29, 2008 (Tu)
In: 0750
1st Wave: n/a
Out: 0945
Wave count: n/a
AT= 38 - 44 degrees
WT= 53 degrees at the farshore buoy
Wx: Cold front moving in
Tide: 2.2 Falling to 1.5
Wind: NNW at 2 mph, to E at 1 mph
Sea Surface: Light bump with slight wind mottling
Buoy: NWS
0700: 11.8 feet @ 12.9 Seconds NW
0800: 11.5 feet @ 11.4 Seconds NW
0900: 10.5 feet @ 12.9 Seconds NW
1000: 10.5 feet @ 12.9 Seconds NW
10'4" Angulo SUP with Infinity paddle
Rock reefs
Waves: 5 feet at 12 seconds (Nearshore buoy approx. ave.) Storm Surf Buoy Model
I love a quickie! But you're right, conditions deteriorated after you left and I only surfed about 6 fun waves before I headed in... am I complaining? No way, I laugh at myself every day and wonder why in the world do I have it so good! What did I do right to get such an awesome life? Maybe it's just being grateful every day that I get to do it again, and that I get to do it with friends.
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