Sunday, January 13, 2008
Day of Rest
It was another big day in NorCal and I was just too tired from SUP surfing hard the last three days to paddle out. The spirit was willing, but the flesh was weak. So the only good waves I got this morning were digital. Lot's of people got plenty of good rides. Priscilla, her son and the Doc paddled out at daylight. I saw them after they got out a few hours later, and they were stoked!
Overall though, conditions didn't seem quite as good as yesterday morning, but things smoothed out a lot by mid-morning. There was an east wind blowing at 15 to 20 mph thirty miles out to sea at the farshore buoy. This put a warble in the waves and bumps on the ocean surface that the light offshores couldn't groom out. But size was no problem. After backing down a bit last night, the swell jumped up to 12-14 feet at 16 seconds by sunrise. Big sets were mega-humongous and moving so much water that very few were able to catch the biggest waves. They were just too hard to paddle into. You needed a Waimea/Mavericks big wave gun to shoot these monsters. It was almost comical watching a couple guys trying to catch waves on their six foot something squash tail thrusters at Self Destructions. Even when they did manage to paddle in, they would just skip down the face after the late, late drop.
The SUP rider in the sequence took down a 200 yard ride before the inside section took him down. He had just enough time to paddle hard out the back and over some bombs that bore down on him faster than a speeding bullet.
Forecasters are calling for things to settle down after today.
January 13, 2008 (Su)
0600: 11 feet @ 16 Seconds WNW
0700: 12.5 feet @ 16 Seconds WNW
0800: 12.5 feet @ 16 Seconds WNW
0900: 13.5 feet @ 16 Seconds WNW
1000: 14.4 feet @ 16 Seconds WNW