Saturday, January 12, 2008
More Good Waves and Long Rides
As forecast, the swell jumped up in size overnight yielding many overhead, consistent sets full of good waves. I paddled out at sunrise and a medium tide. Even with the tide, the easterly wind waves and cliff driven backwash combined with the surf producing swell from the WNW, made for lot's of bumps, backwash and sideways action. I paddled down to Sarges from the Pier put-in, and directly into my first of two, 200+ yard bombs. Wave faces were smooth and the inside reefs were jacking up and crankin'. On my long paddle back out to the lineup I watched Jamie take a double overhead drop and go screaming by, heading for another long ride.
Surftech John was out on his Laird 10 footer shaped by Ron House. John is the best SUP surfer I've ever seen in person. It's always a treat to watch him SUP surf. At 27" wide John can make the 10' Laird do tricks I can only dream about. Also at 27" the board is pretty unstable. John has such good balance he can wobble around in the rolling sea and still make it look easy. Interestingly, John said he really doesn't see the added value at 27" over 28 or 29 inches. Hmmm, we'll have to talk more about this.
Greg's wife was out on her twinzer, absolutely dominating Middles, and putting on a surfing clinic for the rest of us.
Again today I experienced the longest rides ever at Sarges. Yesterday was the longest rides at the Reefs, today it was Sarges to Yellow House. My legs are killin' me.
January 12, 2008 (Sa)
1st Wave: n/a
Wave count: n/a
AT= 43 - 50 degrees
WT= 54 degrees at the farshore buoy
Wx: Partly cloudy
Tide: 2.7 Rising to 3.5
Wind: N at 1 mph to NNW at 2 mph
Sea Surface: Rolling and bumpy sea
0600: 13 feet @ 16 Seconds WNW
0700: 14 feet @ 17 Seconds WNW
0800: 14 feet @ 17 Seconds WNW
0900: 13 feet @ 17 Seconds WNW
1000: 13 feet @ 17 Seconds WNW
10'4" Angulo SUP with Infinity paddle
Waves: 12-15 feet at 16 seconds (Nearshore buoy approx. ave.) Storm Surf Buoy Model