As forecast, the swell jumped up in size overnight yielding many overhead, consistent sets full of good waves. I paddled out at sunrise and a medium tide. Even with the tide, the easterly wind waves and cliff driven backwash combined with the surf producing swell from the WNW, made for lot's of bumps, backwash and sideways action. I paddled down to Sarges from the Pier put-in, and directly into my first of two, 200+ yard bombs. Wave faces were smooth and the inside reefs were jacking up and crankin'. On my long paddle back out to the lineup I watched Jamie take a double overhead drop and go screaming by, heading for another long ride.
Surftech John was out on his Laird 10 footer shaped by Ron House. John is the best SUP surfer I've ever seen in person. It's always a treat to watch him SUP surf. At 27" wide John can make the 10' Laird do tricks I can only dream about. Also at 27" the board is pretty unstable. John has such good balance he can wobble around in the rolling sea and still make it look easy. Interestingly, John said he really doesn't see the added value at 27" over 28 or 29 inches. Hmmm, we'll have to talk more about this.
Greg's wife was out on her twinzer, absolutely dominating Middles, and putting on a surfing clinic for the rest of us.
Again today I experienced the longest rides ever at Sarges. Yesterday was the longest rides at the Reefs, today it was Sarges to Yellow House. My legs are killin' me.
January 12, 2008 (Sa)
In: 0713
1st Wave: n/a
Out: 0905
Wave count: n/a
AT= 43 - 50 degrees
WT= 54 degrees at the farshore buoy
Wx: Partly cloudy
Tide: 2.7 Rising to 3.5
Wind: N at 1 mph to NNW at 2 mph
Sea Surface: Rolling and bumpy sea
Buoy: NWS
0600: 13 feet @ 16 Seconds WNW
0700: 14 feet @ 17 Seconds WNW
0800: 14 feet @ 17 Seconds WNW
0900: 13 feet @ 17 Seconds WNW
1000: 13 feet @ 17 Seconds WNW
10'4" Angulo SUP with Infinity paddle
Rock reefs
Waves: 12-15 feet at 16 seconds (Nearshore buoy approx. ave.) Storm Surf Buoy Model
Hey Gary-
ReplyDeleteI'm jealous! Sounds like you had optimal conditions up there- a weird day down here. The fog blew in and made the idea of paddling into 15' faces that you can't see coming not so fun. Especially when they break a half mile out. Read Bank Wrights description of our spot down here... he wasn't lying. It's weird.
I'm still jealous. That little sequence is hot- looks like there's barrel potential on the inside? And how about that little snap?
Glad to hear you scored some surf. I want mine.
John,
ReplyDeleteThe inside reef on that sequence is a racetrack. Set the rail, take the high line then run and pump as needed. No barrels though. But guys were getting thoroughly barreled and long rides a little further up-point.
I used to live in SD many years ago (Point Loma) and surfed IB a few times. I remember it well. Not for the whimsical practitioner.
They say that "every dog has it's day." I gotta say that we were due for this one. It's been a while since we've had surf and conditions to match and this old dog is trying to lap up all he can.
Oh yeah, I forgot to ask...how much does the M2 weigh?
You know I'm not sure how heavy it is but I will tell you this, it is light compared to a 10' Ron House- he get's those things glassed really heavy!
ReplyDeleteIt's definitely lighter then the M1 though- getting it more and more dialed!
Keep up with the killer photos- I'm digging the photos in series! How's Mike doing on the green machine?
John,
ReplyDeleteYeah, I'm glad I've been able to get a few pics lately. For a while there I just couldn't synch it all up.
I've got this thing about swing weight these days that's why I'm curious about the M2 weight. My Angulo weighs 22 pounds, three pounds lighter than my 9'10" Harbour 19.
You know during this swell I've been wondering where is everyone. Haven't seen Mash or Mikey B, Andy or Dave...are they all skiing or snowboarding? The only guys out SUPing are Surftech John and a guy I SUPed with on Friday who was riding a 12' Laird...and ripping pretty good too on a BIG board.