The most significant winter swell of the last couple years is finally working it's ways off the planet and into the history books. It was memorable, classic, if not epic. I will long remember those long, long rides on steep faces through fast winter wind fortified sections.
Although size was much diminished today, there were still plenty of fun waves. I paddled out and into an all encompassing sunrise just a little before 7AM. It was cold and the offshores made it colder. Full rubber was the order of the day.
All the places were going good at waist to shoulder high. Gdubs was packed at dawn with seven surfers. I stayed at Sarges and surfed by myself for the first half hour. Then I was joined by Steve and a few others. I surfed for three hours and finished up at In Betweens.
The next swell is working it's way through the faraway buoys with a 20 second pulse, size smaller than the last swell. It may be here at first light.
January 14, 2008 (M)
In: 0655
1st Wave: n/a
Out: 1005
Wave count: n/a
AT= 40 - 57 degrees
WT= 54 degrees at the farshore buoy
Wx: A few high clouds
Tide: 2.3 Falling to 1.9, Rising to 2.1
Wind: Calm to NE at 3 mph, light south wind at 1015AM
Sea Surface: Moderately rolling sea to calm and glassy
Buoy: NWS
0600: 8 feet @ 13 Seconds WNW
0700: 9 feet @ 13 Seconds WNW
0800: 8.5 feet @ 12 Seconds WNW
0900: 8.5 feet @ 12 Seconds WNW
1000: 8 feet @ 12 Seconds WNW
10'4" Angulo SUP with Infinity paddle
Rock reefs
Waves: 5-7 feet at 13 seconds (Nearshore buoy approx. ave.) Storm Surf Buoy Model
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