New Swell Showing

Fore runners from a new swell registering predominantly WNW on the farshore buoy started up Saturday night around 7PM. Even during Sunday morning's high tide, waves were showing at the biggest spots.

I waited until the low tide to surf some peelers at the reefs. I paddled out from the vill beach break and into a moderately stiff NW wind which never let up, even after dark when I got out.

Nobody was sitting on the section of reef I wanted to surf, probably because the low tide was closing out the usually makeable inside section. But the tide was rising so I thought things would get better. I got a couple by myself and then MikeyB and Mash paddled over from the reefs in between Sarges and me. Mash was on his brother John's Mahi One (Stamps built) SUP and proceeded to rip the place apart. He was a one man wave magnet, getting the longest rides of the afternoon, on the best waves that came through. He was just there and in the right spot every time. The way he was riding, I would say that Mash and his new board have a beautiful relationship going.

Firefighter Brother Joe paddled over about forty-five minutes later and we had a great time. He was on his 11'9" Angulo Nui, just chasing down everything he bent his paddle to. It was great being out in the water with him again. We hadn't surfed together since our Maldives trip several years ago. He got an outrageously long ride in the dimming light near the end of our session, just soul arching his big Nui across a 150-yard section, locked in perfect and me screaming in the bleachers. Soul surfing!

Joe sent me an email last summer that captures, in part, the heart of the SUP experience. He wrote, "I went for a paddle out past the buoy, outside of Sarges and well off shore. It was one of those days we had where the surf was small, the wind was still and the water like glass all day. I saw whales just a little further out from where I was and I just enjoyed the peace and solitude of paddling off shore." Joe knows a little about offshore solitude as he is a blue water free diver, who once held the world record for largest tuna taken with a spear gun.

MikeyB was picking off waves in his trademark laid back and casual style of SUPing..."What, me worry?"

As for my surfing, I paddled into a lot of close-outs but my wave of the day was a long ride from Yellow House to past Dicks...about 200 yards, sweet! The real session today though was surfing with good friends in the awesome beauty that is our heritage and our responsibility.

The sky turned gray near dusk as the storm from Canada started to makes it's presence known. The wind was bitter cold and blowing steadily. I could feel the icy bite on my bare fingers. Periodic light rain accompanied the lowering ceilings and I was beginning to believe the NWS forecast of snow at the lower elevations. What a great time to be alive.

The down wind paddle back to the vill was quick and easy. The lights on the pier and in the vill's promenade were guiding me home. Did I say life is good? Thank you Jesus!
January 20, 2008 (Su)
In: 1552
1st Wave: n/a
Out: 1740
Wave count: n/a
AT= 53 - 47 degrees
WT= 53 degrees at the farshore buoy
Wx: Partly cloudy to storm clouds moving in
Tide: -1.3 Rising to .37
Wind: WNW at 5 mph, to NNW at 3 mph
Sea Surface: Light rolling sea with wind mottling
Buoy: NWS
1400: 6.2 feet @ 16 Seconds W
1500: 6.6 feet @ 14.8 Seconds WNW
1600: 5.6 feet @ 16 Seconds WNW
1700: 6.6 feet @ 16 Seconds W
1800: 6.2 feet @ 14.8 Seconds WNW
10'4" Angulo SUP with Infinity paddle
Rock reefs
Waves: 3.5-4.5 feet at 14.8 seconds (Nearshore buoy approx. ave.) Storm Surf Buoy Model