Wednesday, January 16, 2008
Small Surf in Choppy Wind Waves
There was a decent nearshore wind swell in the water that was rendered challenging by incessant "offshore" winds. Just standing up on the ocean surface was a good workout today.
High pressure situated at 135W/45N and over the Great Basin in combination with the low pressure along the California coast has conspired to create offshore winds that are gusting up to 50 mph in the inland hills. What this does for us is to put a very nearshore easterly wind swell on the water that ends up putting one to three troughs on the faces of whatever decent farshore wind swell waves that are making landfall. Thus we have waves, in difficult conditions.
I surfed for two hours this morning, paddling out at the pier in hopes of some low tides waves at the reefs. That didn't happen, so I paddled up to Sarges, and then to Gdubs. I chose to pass by the two folks who were out at Sarges and rode a couple waves at Gdubs. But the best shaped waves were pushing right into the primary kelp bed. One wave there was enough to make me head back to Sarges. By the time I got there the two folks who were out had left so I surfed it for the next hour and a half by myself. I got a ton of small waves with late off-balance take-offs, and some fun fast sections inside. Junky waves, but I was having fun.
There is something so peaceful about standing on the water, waiting for the next wave; and then spotting it coming, maneuvering for the take-off, chasing it down, feeling the tail lift and push you forward into the first drop and following sections, ending with a kick out and fast turn to paddle back out. It doesn't seem like it should be this satisfying...but it is.
January 16, 2008 (W)
1st Wave: n/a
Wave count: n/a
AT= 51 - 59 degrees
WT= 54 degrees at the farshore buoy
Wx: A few high clouds
Tide: .99 Falling to 0.68, Rising to .79
Wind: East at 3 mph, to NNE at 5 mph
Sea Surface: Incessant pre-white cap rolling sea
0900: 11.2 feet @ 10.8 Seconds NW
1000: 9.5 feet @ 11.4 Seconds NW
1100: 8.5 feet @ 12.1 Seconds NW
1200: 9.8 feet @ 11.4 Seconds NW
1300: 10.2 feet @ 10.8 Seconds NW
10'4" Angulo SUP with Infinity paddle
Waves: 3-4 feet at 11.4 seconds (Nearshore buoy approx. ave.) Storm Surf Buoy Model